We finally made it to Lisbon, and I can’t believe we didn’t go sooner. We’ve always heard great things about Portugal, but we were still blown away by how wonderful it was. First of all, it’s postcard pretty just about everywhere you look. The tiled building facades and cobblestoned streets abound throughout the city and are not just confined to a small historic district as you see in other towns. Adding to its beauty of course are its coastal location and hilly streets (if you’ve been to San Francisco, Lisbon will likely remind you of it- it even has a Golden Gate-esque bridge). Then there’s the fabulous food, fun shopping and historic neighborhoods you can stroll for hours...what’s not to love?

Eat, Eat, Eat

There are many reasons to fall in love with Lisbon and one of them is definitely the food. We eat a lot when we travel to a new place, and this was no exception, but not one meal left us feeling uncomfortably full. We realized that either the food was lighter than other cuisines or we were eating slower and savoring every bite. It was probably a combination of both. The Portuguese definitely have their share of indulgent treats, like pastel de nata and fire roasted chorizo, but they enjoy it at a slow place. At one point we spent almost two hours eating a couple of amazing cans of sardines and mackerel. Turns out tinned fish is a big deal there and we came back with a carryon full of them. The amazing boutiques selling these tinned delicacies will make you want to buy every beautifully packaged can in sight.

*Oh heavenly mackerel, where have you been all my life?*

*When the sardine shop is prettier than your house.*

Then there were the pastels de nata, or pastéis de nata, which are sweet, creamy egg custard tarts. We ate A LOT of pastels de nata! The most authentic are actually called pastel de Belém, which originate from the Belém neighborhood where the legendary recipe was passed down from the monastery. And a legendary line forms outside legendary bakery Pastéis de Belém where they are known to make the best. Is it true and is it worth the hype (and the line)? We were steered to other pastry shops by some locals claiming that Pastéis de Belém is not really the best in town, but as stubborn tourists we had to go see for ourselves. We skipped the take out line and opted to be seated inside the huge dining hall which seems to go on forever. Our verdict is that this institution lives up to its reputation and definitely had the best pastéis de Belem. Theirs were served warm, as if they just came out of the oven moments before, and were lighter overall with a delicate flaky crust made from filo dough and not puff pastry like many other shops. Even better when sprinkled with lots of cinnamon! Whether you sit inside or stand in the long line, this is one not to miss stop in Lisbon!

*We could all use a little more pastel de nata in our lives.*

Besides all the lovely custardy desserts, some of the culinary highlights were fish stews and bacalhau (salted cod fish) cakes. I love seafood and I love soup, so when I see fish stew on a menu, I’m pretty excited. The stews were light, flavorful and very satisfying- I was searching for recipes the moment we got back! And the bacalhau cakes were a yummy snack to fuel our Portuguese adventure.

*A little touristy, but who cares when the folks at* *Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau stuff their cod cakes with cheese! (And I’d be lying if I said we didn’t have these for breakfast on our last day).*

Walk, Walk, Walk

Lisbon is a great city for walking, with many interesting neighborhoods to explore. The Alfama district is the oldest in Lisbon and was our favorite. This is where we stayed and in addition to being very pretty, it was also very convenient. The hilly streets are a joy to walk through, with beautiful buildings, hidden passages, narrow staircases, and interesting bars & restaurants around every corner. If you don’t feel like walking uphill to the top, ride the popular #28 tram to the panoramic views and then walk downhill. Check out the castle if you have time and if you’re lucky enough to be there on a Saturday, don’t miss the Feira de Ladra flea market.

*If only I could fly to Lisbon every Saturday…*

*The street performers were on another level…we were lucky enough to catch the talented* *Dani Lança*.

*Atlantic views from the top of the Alfama.*

Shop, Shop, Shop

If you like to shop, the LxFactory is not to be missed. This complex of artsy sops and restaurants is a great way to spend a couple of hours in Lisbon, especially Sunday morning when a cute little flea market lines the pedestrian street. From beautiful home goods to the coolest bookstore I’ve ever seen to funky fashion and accessories, you’re bound to find something good. After your shopping excursion, you can fuel up from a variety of eateries specializing in hotdogs, healthy flexitarian food, cheesecake, and everything in between.

*The* *coolest bookshop* *in Lisbon…or maybe anywhere.*

Tchau for now Portugal, we’ll definitely be back!

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